In the fall of 2022, I was headed to Europe for my first solo trip after the world closed down for the COVID19 pandemic.
I was beyond ecstatic!
I had dreamed of coming back for more than two years at this point, and wanted to pack in as much as possible into my nearly three-week trip.
Stockholm First, then Tallinn
I started out my trip in Stockholm. Flights from my city in the USA were cheapest here, and I had never been to Scandinavia, so it was a perfect decision. I toyed around with the idea of taking the overnight ferry from Stockholm to Tallinn or Helsinki. But ultimately, decided just to grab a flight to Tallinn. And I'm glad I did. While the ferry was probably a fun adventure, 12+ hours on a ferry was a bit much for me. The 1-hour flight (and free lounge access at the airport) was perfect for me!
I departed Stockholm airport for Tallinn on RyanAir in early evening and arrived in Tallinn well after dark. It was easy to navigate from the airport to the city center on the tram. And, the hotel I chose was just steps from the tram stop. So easy.
In the Heart of Tallinn's Old Town
I stayed at the My City Hotel in the heart of Old Town Tallinn and it was a total delight of a hotel. My room was beautiful and looked out over the city square. As soon as I checked in and dropped off my bags (even though it was late), I journeyed out into the city to check things out and find something to eat.
Thai in Tallinn, obviously
I wanted to find a traditional Estonian restaurant, but most everything was closed by the time I was looking. As a last resort, I chose a Thai restaurant that was next door to my hotel. It's not that I didn't want Thai food (it's actually one of my favorites), but I just wanted to have something a little more traditional for the country I was visiting. The food was absolutely delicious though, and ironically some of the best Thai food I've had anywhere. The ambiance was also upscale, classy, while at the same time cozy. Check out Nok Nok if you're ever in Tallinn.
After officially stuffing myself, I returned to my room, washed my clothes in the sink, hung them to dry, and then went to bed. The next morning, I woke up early so that I could tour the city before my ferry departed for Helsinki at 13:30.
Tallinn by Daylight
The city of Tallinn is a beautiful one and a mixture of old German and Russian orthodox, as well as Soviet styles of architecture. I encountered all three of these on my self-guided walking tour of Old Town. I had conducted a Google search before going out to find out the top things to see in Tallinn and the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, the Town Hall Square, Toompea Castle, and St. Olaf's Church were all recommended.
Town Hall Square
I started off with the Town Hall Square, since it was closest to my hotel. I had walked through it the night before, but I wanted to see it in the daylight. The colorful buildings reminded me a lot of Stockholm's Gamla Stan, and interestingly enough--after doing a little research while writing this post--Tallinn was apparently part of Sweden at one point. So, certainly, the architecture here also has a Swedish flare to it as well the other influences I mentioned.
Touring a Russian Orthodox Church in Tallinn
One of the things I really wanted to do in Tallinn was go inside the St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. I had never been inside a Russian Orthodox Church before and they are so stunning on the outside, I was certain the inside would be just as beautiful.
I was not wrong! Fortunately, the building was open when I visited. It was gorgeous inside with turquoise blue walls accented with gold trimmed wallpaper, gold chandeliers, and panels of colorful stained glass behind the altar.
Truthfully, I'm not sure if photographs inside the building are allowed. I saw a man saying something to another tourist and she put down her camera. I hurriedly, stopped taking pictures as well. Due to that, I'm assuming these photos above are likely contraband of some sort. So, enjoy them! haha.
Looking Out Over the City
While doing my research on what to see in Tallinn, I came across many pictures of beautiful panoramic views of the city. So naturally I wanted to find the spot they were taken from. I googled "best viewpoints in Tallinn to take photos" and discovered that the Patkuli Platform was the top recommended spot.
So, I asked Google to take me there, and I followed the walking directions through cobbled lanes to the spot that was tucked behind a row of buildings on the edge of the Old Town.
It was such a beautiful spot and I highly recommend including this in your Tallinn itinerary. Just keep in mind that in busy months, this spot could get crowded, so I would recommend heading there early.
Wrapping Things Up
I headed back to my hotel around 11:00 so I could take advantage of the breakfast that came with my room rate before I checked out. It was delicious, and included some local specialties such as Estonian pancakes! I had wanted to try those the night before, but the place I planned to eat at was already closed. I was super glad I got to try them before I left the city!
Heading for the Ferry Terminal
At noon on the dot, since that was checkout time, I packed up my things (including the clothes I had washed and hung to dry the night before), checked out at the main desk, and then headed out.
It drizzled a little as I walked to the ferry terminal. Nothing to major, just enough to make my naturally curly hair frizz out a little! The walk was easy, flat, and about 15 minutes in length.
Biding Time for the Ferry
Inside the terminal building, you'll find just a huge room with ticket booths on one side and some little shops and cafes on the other. I found the area where the boarding process was supposed to take place and hung out nearby waiting for the doors to open.
While I waited I saw some massage chairs that begged me to give them a try. I decided to treat myself, which isn't something I usually would do. I sat down, secured my bags close by, and then tried to use my offered to help me, but my card just wouldn't work in the chairs. I gave up and started to get up and collect my things, but he insisted that I just take the chair he just paid for. I said I couldn't, but he assured me he wanted to do that for me. So kind! I'm telling you, there are wonderful people everywhere! And you rarely have to look far to find them.
Boarding the Ferry
The ferry boarding process was simple. Once they opened the doors, you just followed the crowds through the electronic turnstiles where you scanned your ticket (the QR code on your digital ticket on your phone) and then walked down the gangway to the ship.
On board, I found a spot in one of the cafe dining areas near the windows where I could set up my mobile office for the two-hour trip to Helsinki. Imagine writing up stories for a work client as you sit on a ship crossing the Baltic Sea. It was totally unreal!
Now, you might be thinking of a ferry in terms of how I originally thought of them. If you're imagining a big metal ship with no amenities and little comfort, you are not picturing these ferries correctly. The ferries used in this area are NICE! Honestly, they are more like cruise ships with multiple floors, dining areas, lounges, and entertainment spaces. I didn't spend too much time exploring because I had to get some work done on this two-hour trip and I didn't want to lose my great office spot. But from what I saw, I was certainly impressed.
You can read more about it in this blog post I wrote here.
Overall Thoughts
What did I think of Tallinn?
I loved this city! While I only had a short time here, I thought that I used it efficiently enough to see a lot of the highlights. I would definitely go back in the summer and check out all of the Baltics together enjoying the long days of sunlight, the sparkling beaches, and brilliant green countryside that this region has to offer!
Any tips?
Definitely stay in Old Town. This is a must. My hotel was very affordable and I was glad I stayed there. I believe there are also terrific hostels in the area that would also be a great option.
I would also recommend using Tallinn as the jumping off point to get to Helsinki. I really enjoyed taking the ferry across to Finland and would recommend it to anyone! It was a lot of fun and helped me see how locals commute and travel from place to place on a daily basis in this region.
If Tallinn hasn't been on your travel radar, it certainly should be! It's such a charming and unique city and it's still enough off-the-beaten-path that you won't be fighting throngs of tourists. That's especially going to be the case if you visit here in the shoulder season.
My other articles related to the Baltics
Estonia
7 Essential Tips for Your Tallinn-Helsinki Ferry Trip
Latvia
One Wintry Day in Latvia: My First Trip to Riga
Riga to Vilnius
Bussing it from Riga to Vilnius--A Winter Adventure
Lithuania