It would have made more sense to visit Latvia and Lithuania at the same time I visited Estonia in the fall of 2022. However, I didn't. So, here I was in December of 2023 determined to include these two Baltic countries on my must-see visit list.
Heading Towards the Baltics
After spending an extensive amount of time touring the Christmas markets across Germany, I wanted to see what Christmas was like in other countries. So, after driving across eastern Germany and dropping off my rental car, I caught a flight from Berlin to Riga via RyanAir. On these discount flights, I always pay that little extra to get the seat up front and in the past, this has often resulted in getting an entire row to myself since few people will fork out that extra cash. But today, I was fortunate enough to have two delightful row mates. The couple I sat next to were from Latvia and had just spent the weekend in Berlin at the Christmas markets. We chatted about all things travel, shared photos of some of our favorite places, and when I asked for advice on the best way to get into the city center from the airport, they quickly offered to just give me a lift in the Bolt rental car that they were picking up (and like a bike share program, were just dropping off downtown). I never expected such an offer and gladly accepted. It would be near midnight when we arrived and I knew it was going to be a lot easier and faster if I didn't have to take the city bus!
The parking lot was frosted in a thick layer of snow, the deepest snow I had been in so far in my trip. I looked like an amateur with the shoes I was wearing (I didn't bring along proper snow boots, even though I knew better since I grew up in a place with plenty of winter snow).
However, my shoes ended up doing just fine. We hopped in the rental car, and took off towards downtown Riga. Along the way, my new friends pointed out different sites and buildings to notice in their beloved capital city. They were the perfect impromptu tour guides!
Midnight Sledding
My friends dropped me off just steps from my hotel (which was down a side street) and instead of going straight there, I took a quick walk around the surrounding area. Across from where they dropped me off was a beautiful park with the famous Freedom Monument in the center (honoring soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence).
I loved how alive the city still felt, despite the late hour. I just expected that at midnight on a cold, snowy night everyone would be indoors. But that wasn't the case. One of my favorite things was seeing the people (grown adults) giggling as they careened down the hills in the park on sleds! Everything about this scene was straight out of a children's picture book.
Dreaming of a Window in My Room
My hotel was a short distance away from the park, so after taking a few photos to remember the feeling of this magical night, I journeyed onwards. I didn't want to be too much later because I knew the reception desk was waiting for me to check in.
The lobby of the hotel was cozy and warm and glowed under the soft lights of Christmas decorations. I picked up my key and the lady at reception showed me to my room--up a winding staircase in the attic. I had been excited to stay in my own room, my first of the trip, after staying in hostels for almost 2 weeks.
My room was okay, but a little disappointing. There was no window (only a skylight covered with snow) and as an American who is used to a certain level of safety codes, this feels unnerving since fire codes would never allow this in the USA. I have encountered such issues in many places I've stayed in Europe and each time I cringe. Not only is there the issue with safety with no window, but also the lack of the ability to get any kind of fresh air. My room was sweltering--the radiator had been left on high and it was so HOT! But, I made the best of it (even tried to figure out how to turn on the AC to no avail) and finally was able to drift off to sleep.
Colorful Art Nouveau Architecture
The next morning, I left my bags until checkout so that I could tour Riga. I only had this one morning to explore before my bus left to Vilnius at 13:30. During my short time here, I mainly wanted to see what this city was like in daylight and visit the Christmas market.
Riga in December is a true winter fairyland with its snow-packed streets and colorful Art Nouveau buildings. I didn't realize this before I came, but apparently, Riga has the highest concentration of Art Nouveau architecture of anywhere in the world! When this style was at its height in the late 1800s and early 1900s, architects were trying to break free of the rigid styles from the past and to do so, used a lot of color and ornamental designs on the building's facades. Because of that, Riga quite literally feels like you're walking into something right out of your childhood imagination. It was a true fairytale town.
I have noticed that many places throughout cold regions paint their buildings in bright colors. I'm guessing this is due to the positive affect this has on city residents. In the dark, cold of winter, it's probably helpful if the world around you is contrasted with bright, happy colors!
Cozy Breakfast Spot
The night before, my friends suggested that if possible I should try out their favorite place for breakfast. As I walked along the streets lost in my photography, I serendipitously ran across it! Their tables were all booked, but one was available only if I could order and finish my food within a half hour when the table was reserved. I accepted the challenge.
The spot was called "This Place Doesn't Need a Name" and I could easily see why as soon as I sat down. The place was so memorable, that you don't even need a moniker for it, you'll just simply remember it as the ONLY place in Riga to eat breakfast. I ordered a fried-egg topped avocado toast, one of my first restaurant meals of my trip, and thoroughly enjoyed every hurried bite of it.
Even though I only had a short time here, I relished in every second of the ambiance of this cozy corner cafe with its pillow stuffed nooks, colorful cascading Christmas lights and ornaments adorning the ceiling, and tall windows where you could watch the Sunday morning world of Riga amble along in the snow. When I make it back to Riga, this spot will definitely be on my list.
Riga's Christmas Market
Riga's Christmas market was not nearly the size or spectacle of most markets I had been to thus far on my European tour. In addition to its quaint size, it also had more of a Medieval feel to it than a modern, commercial one. I really loved it!
The first thing I noticed as I approached the market was the sweet, musky smell of wood-burning fires that were hailing from the vendors cooking their specialties in large cast iron cauldrons. Since it was just barely opening time, the market was nearly customer-free which made it a fabulous time to get those uncluttered photos!
Moving Onward
Checkout time was noon, so after I visited the Christmas market, I scurried back to my room to pick up my things and headed towards the bus station. My friends from the night before suggested that I stop in at the Central Market which is located right next to the bus station. This famous landmark is set up in four arched-roof buildings that were once German Zeppelin hangars. It has a cool, industrial vibe to it.
The market was huge with all kinds of items sold including fresh fish, fruits and vegetables, and locally made breads and other baked goods. I didn't have a lot of time to shop, so I opted to just go into a supermarket there and pick up some quick snacks for my four-hour bus ride to Vilnius, Lithuania.
Overall Thoughts
What were my thoughts of Riga?
Honestly, I loved Riga and would totally love to come back here to explore at another time of year. The city was magical at winter, but I'm guessing that during the green of summer with its white nights and almost endless sunshine I'd get to experience another kind of beautiful. Since I visited Estonia in the fall, I can attest that autumn is also a great time of year to visit the Baltics.
What would be my plans on my next visit?
On my next visit, I'd love to rent a car and explore the smaller towns, coastline, and the countryside. And also extend out into the other Baltic countries in the same way.
Would I recommend this region to other travelers?
If the Baltic region hasn't been on your travel radar, it definitely needs to be! This off-the-beaten path destination is definitely one not to miss!
My other articles related to the Baltics
Estonia
An Autumn Visit to Tallinn, Estonia--My First Visit to the Baltics
7 Essential Tips for Your Tallinn-Helsinki Ferry Trip
Riga to Vilnius
Bussing it from Riga to Vilnius--A Winter Adventure
Lithuania
