When I arrived at my hotel apartment in Lucca, I immediately opened up the window to let in the cool April breeze. Then, I promptly passed out on the cozy king size bed.
I was totally exhausted.
I had just spent two weeks traipsing across Ireland, the Netherlands, Portugal, Spain and Italy—spending often just a night in each city I visited—and I was totally spent.
I was thoroughly looking forward to these two days in my own apartment in this charming Tuscan town.
A Change of Plans
I hadn't planned on staying in Lucca initially. After my tour of Rome and the Amalfi Coast, I had intended to spend some time in Florence. However, it was Italy's Liberation Day (April 25) when I planned to arrive and just about everything I wanted to visit in Michelangelo's city was closed for the day. So, I had to adjust my plans.
I was introduced to the idea of Lucca by Rick Steves. I had watched one of his Italy programs and he talked about the beauty of this quaint town just west of Florence. I loved the idea that this place was a little off-the-beaten path, had a walled medieval old-town section, and was the hometown of Puccini!
When I found a great deal on a hotel apartment in the old city for two days, I snatched it up immediately.
Lucca would be my home for the next two days!
On a Mission for Concert Tickets
After sleeping for a couple of hours, I awoke to the afternoon sunlight sparkling through the open window. I felt refreshed and energized enough to go out and explore. I had three things I wanted to accomplish on this first day in Lucca: get lost exploring the narrow cobblestone streets, eat delicious pasta, and go to the Puccini concert that's held every evening in the Church of San Giovanni.
Since it was already around 16:00, I decided to first go find out about the concert. The church was just a short walk away and when I arrived, I discovered that there was only one ticket left for that evening! Boy was I glad I was a solo traveler at that moment. With ticket in hand, I returned back out to explore the city and get some dinner before the concert began at 19:00.
April is a fabulous month to visit anywhere in Italy. The wisteria is in full bloom and its delicate purple blossoms cascade over stone walls and drape from wooden trellises. On just about every street in Lucca, you'll encounter these velvety petals with their aromatic fragrances painting a Monet-type masterpiece amongst the city's old-world splendor.
I drank in every breath of the sweet fragrance as I strolled through the cobblestone streets. Occasionally, the streets would intersect into a central piazza and I'd snap photos of the beautiful buildings, church towers, and old stone edifices bordering these medieval squares.
Diving into Lucca's Traditional Pasta
When I happened upon Piazza San Giusto, I was happy to come across a restaurant that was already serving dinner. You see, most restaurants in Italy don't open for dinner until 19:00 or 21:00.
It was difficult to decide what to order because everything looked so delicious, but I ultimately decided upon the Tortelli Lucchesi, a Lucca specialty, and was not disappointed. The oversized ravioli-type pasta was stuffed with beef and then topped with a rich tomato beef sauce. Deliziosa!
For dessert, I ordered the tiramisu—I was on a mission to find the best tiramisu in Italy apparently because I ordered this wherever I went. However, while the restaurant certainly nailed their pasta dish, the tiramisu left a lot to be desired.
While at the restaurant, a group of travelers in a long table next to me were not eating, but rather working diligently on notepads. I struck up a conversation and found out they were artists on an organized artist retreat and were staying at a villa in the Tuscany area. Every day they went to a new location to sketch their surroundings.
This is the artist who leads the group (see instagram pic below) if you ever wanna join one of his workshops.
It was absolutely delightful to watch them work and I truthfully would have expected nothing less than to be seated next to a troupe of artists while dining in this delightful square in Lucca.
The Sweet Sounds of Puccini
I finished up my meal just in time to make it to the concert. I'm no opera aficionado, but I am familiar with some of Puccini's famous works, in particular Nessun Dorma. In fact, this is probably my most favorite operatic work of any I have heard!
The concert was a mix of Puccini and Mozart, featuring both a male and female vocalist. Their final song was Nessun Dorma. What a fantastic way to end my first evening in Lucca!
When I returned to my room, I noticed that each of the apartments in this hotel had a specific name and mine just happened to be Turandot. I smiled when I saw that because this is actually Puccini's opera that features Nessun Dorma!
A Rainy Day in Lucca
The next morning, I slept in, wakening to the sound of a gentle rain falling outside my open window. I grabbed my umbrella and journeyed out to explore. My first stop was the little "New York" cafe that offered a breakfast discount for those staying at my hotel. The chocolate croissant, hot chocolate, and freshly squeezed orange juice was the perfect start to the day.
Climbing Torre Guinigi
After this sweet treat, I decided to get a little movement in and opted to climb one of Lucca's highest towers: the Torre Guinigi. The view of the city from the top was stunning, especially since the rain had stopped and the sunlight was peaking through the clouds, reflecting on the red-roofed houses in the old city.
The Oval Piazza dell-Anfiteatro
I continued onwards after my tower climb towards another important spot in the city: the Piazza dell-Anfiteatro. Most piazzas are rectangle or square in shape. But this gathering place is not. It's egg-shaped due to the fact that it's located inside the shell of an ancient Roman amphitheater.
Today, there was a flower and farmer's market in the Piazza. I meandered about, looking at the beautiful blooms for sale and checking out some of the local produce and handicraft items.
Luca's Medieval Walls
The rest of the day, I spent strolling the perimeter of the city. The old walls serve as the perfect place to do just that and are a draw for travelers and residents alike. Some people walk, others ride bikes, and still others get carted around in golf carts. A walk around the city walls is an absolute must on any trip to Lucca.
Best Lunch Spot in Lucca
For lunch, I googled "best lunch spots in Lucca" and got the suggestion for a restaurant called In Pasta where I ordered some avant garde dishes including ravioli and bruschetta that were fashioned with creative ingredients including hummus, cucumber, radishes, beats, and julienned carrots. Such a hip, modern take on old Italian classics! I definitely recommend this spot if you find yourself in Lucca!
Ending with a Spa Day
In the late afternoon when the rain picked back up again, I returned to my lovely hotel for a "spa day" where I brewed some lemon herbal tea, put on a facial mask scrub, and draped a strand of fairy lights inside a blue water bottle to create the perfect ambiance. It was lovely and felt very much like the frequent retreats I create for myself at home.
While cozied up on my king size bed, I decided to watch a favorite movie from my childhood (Houseboat) starring the famous Italian actress Sofia Loren.
You see, every time I had heard people say "You're Welcome," or "Prego" in Italian, I thought of this movie and the song Loren sings on it titled "Prego, Prego." Because of that, it felt fitting that I should wrap up my time here in Lucca with this delightful 1950s film.
Tuscan R & R
The next morning as I packed to leave, I felt well-rested and ready to take on the more extreme adventures of the rest of my trip. As I closed the door of Turandot for the last time, I looked at my little slice of Tuscan heaven that I had enjoyed for the past two days and said a most heartfelt Grazie.
I couldn't have asked for any better than the Tuscan R & R I received while lazing about for two glorious days in Lucca.
I'd come back to this charming city anytime!
The Wrap-Up
Whether you're an opera lover, a foodie, or simply an exhausted traveler seeking a relaxing escape, there's something for everyone here in Lucca. So, pack your bags, grab your walking shoes, and come discover the hidden gem of Tuscany yourself!
