Many of my travels are inspired by the movies I've seen, books I've read, or artwork I've encountered.
On my first trip to Berlin in November 2019, I wanted to find the famous Glienicke Bridge because it was featured in the Steven Spielberg movie The Bridge of Spies. However, my first trip to Germany's capital city was press-related—I was there to cover the 30th Anniversary of the Fall of the Berlin Wall—and I just couldn't spare the time to travel to the outskirts of the city to find this obscure spot.
Therefore, when I returned to Berlin in December 2022, I was determined to finally make my pilgrimage to this Cold War site.
What is the Glienicke Bridge?
The Glienicke Bridge is a 19th Century Neoclassical structure that spans the Havel River and connects Berlin with Potsdam. During the Cold War, this part of Berlin was in democratic West Berlin while Potsdam was part of communist East Germany. Therefore, this crossroads between communism and democracy turned out to be an ideal spot for the East and West to exchange their spies.
This is how it worked: after prearranged conditions were established, the two groups would meet on their respective sides of the bridge and then the spies would be allowed to pass over to their "home" sides and rejoin their countrymen.
As depicted in the movie, the first—and now most famous—exchange took place on the night of February 10, 1962 where Soviet Spy Rudolf Abel (captured by the United States) was exchanged for American U-2 spy plane pilot Gary Powers (captured by the Soviets when his plane went down).
I was so fascinated by this movie and all the significance this site had in history that naturally, I wanted to not only see the real bridge in person, but also wanted to walk across it myself! Obviously I'm no spy, but I definitely thought it would be cool to trod in their footsteps.
Journeying to Potsdam
I used Google maps to find the public transportation directions to the bridge. In doing so, I found that the easiest way to get there was to go to Potsdam and then make my way to the bridge on foot or by public transportation.
This was actually perfect because it would combine two trips into one. I had wanted to visit Potsdam as well, so I was happy I'd be able to see the beauties of this city at the same time.
It was an easy train ride from my hostel in Berlin to Potsdam, some of which was covered by my Eurail pass. I left early in the morning so I would have plenty of time to tour Potsdam and get to the bridge before nightfall (which in the winter is around 16:00).
The Heart of Potsdam
When I arrived in Potsdam, I grabbed a yummy cherry pastry from a bakery in the train station. Then, I walked towards the center of town to see a little of Potsdam's beautiful architecture. You see, this city was once the capital and royal city of the Kingdom of Prussia and although many of the buildings were destroyed in World War II, most were rebuilt to their original grandeur or replaced with buildings of equal beauty.
My first stop was the Old Market Square that was bordered by the St. Nicholas Church (one of the finest examples of German Classicism) with its cream-colored stone walls and copper crowned dome, the salmon pink Potsdamer Stadtschloss (City Palace), and the Greco-Roman style Rathaus (town hall).
This was the original downtown of old Potsdam and where all the action took place due to its location on the riverbanks. Yet, the square was basically empty when I arrived. This was actually quite nice because it meant that I had the entire place to myself to shoot photos and eat my pastry in peace!
Perusing Potsdam
I continued onwards through the city of Potsdam, walking leisurely through the town. After being in bustling Berlin, Potsdam definitely feels like a "town."
Along the way, I ran into the Christmas market (very small and nothing like Berlin's massive markets) and got to see some more of the city's beautiful streets and architecture. I was recommended by a friend to go to the Sanssouci Palace, so I continued in a northwesterly direction on foot.
The walk was beautiful, albeit a little challenging on the last part where it was pretty much straight up a hill to the palace's perch. However, the weather was lovely, especially for December, so I didn't have to worry about slipping and sliding in any snow and ice as I made my way onwards and upwards.
Without a Care in Sanssouci
The Sanssouci palace itself was closed that day, but the grounds were open. The outside of the palace, with its creamy banana-colored stone, was spectacular. Sanssouci is a French term that means "without worry" or "carefree" in English. And indeed that's how you feel when you're on these grounds.
The manicured gardens stretch out from the palace in intricate geometric designs interlaced with fountains, archways, and statuary. In the far distance you can spy a historic windmill that looks more like it belongs in the Netherlands than in northeastern Germany.
Sanssouci was the beloved palace of Frederick the Great, the great king of Prussia who was known for his ability to make this state one of the most powerful in Europe. He loved this place so much that he willed to be entombed here in a crypt on the grounds. After visiting, I can certainly see why good ol' King Frederick wished to have this be his final resting place. It was a picturesque and peaceful spot.
I'd love to return to Sanssouci someday and tour the interior because from the pictures I've seen, it is breathtaking. Frederick the Great truly was a man who loved the beautiful things of this world, and adorned his prized palace with them.
Bussing towards the Bridge
So, now that my tour of Potsdam was complete, I needed to head towards the bridge. Google let me know that it was most advised to hop on the public transportation rather than walk all the way to Glienicke. I found a bus stop, asked two ladies standing there if it was the correct spot, and indeed it was. We had a lovely conversation—they were on holiday from Hamburg and due to their descriptions of their city, I knew Hamburg needed to be added to my "must-see" list on a future trip to Germany.
I was able to buy my ticket on the bus, and took it as far as city center. Then, I transferred to a bus that dropped me closer to the bridge. From there, I walked. I didn't want to risk staying on the bus and accidentally going across the bridge via a motorized vehicle, because that's NOT what I wanted to do. I wanted to go across the bridge on foot!
Along the way, I encountered beautiful vistas, including a water view of a palace perched on the banks on the opposite side of the Havel. A Google lens search revealed that this was Babelsberg Palace, the summer residence of Crown Prince William that was built in 1833. Stunning.
A Giddy Arrival at Glienicke
After just a short time of walking, Google directions indicated that I was getting close. When I turned the corner at the end of a street, sure enough, there it was in the near distance!
It feels odd to get all giddy to see a bridge—especially an obscure one like this—because after all, it's not like this is the Golden Gate or something. But I had seen this EXACT bridge on the big screen and watched the actors recreate the famous February 10 scene RIGHT HERE ON THIS VERY SPOT, and now here I was walking directly towards it.
I took a bazillion photos of the bridge from all angles, including many selfies (obviously) and then started on my way across Glienicke on the footpath portion closest to the steel framework.
There was virtually no traffic on the bridge, so it felt even more authentic. I could picture that icy night depicted in the movie when this bridge was stark and scary with barbed wire and blockades and sharp shooters from both sides had their guns drawn and ready to fire. The two opposing sides walked slowly and crossed in the middle, then quickly moved to the safety of their countrymen. When I started my walk, I was like Gary Powers walking from the East towards my "home" in the democratic West.
My crossing wasn't as dramatic as in the movie, obviously. But I certainly did sense the importance of walking across this bridge as I did so. I took my time, pausing to look at my surroundings and just soaking up the experience and all the thoughts and feelings it evoked.
Navigating Back to Berlin Central
Once getting to Berlin on the opposite side of Glienicke—my Cold War pilgrimage now complete—I had to find my way back to the central part of Berlin. Walking was out of the question; Berlin is huge! So, I searched out public transportation options. I found the route, and the bus stop was on the street I currently trod. So, I hung out and waited the few minutes for the bus. When I boarded, I verified that this bus went to the train station and then asked the driver if I could buy a ticket on the bus.
"Nein, fraulein," he answered.
Obviously not wanting to just leave me stranded on this nearly-deserted road, he kindly motioned for me to just sit down. I sure do appreciate the goodness of people that I encounter in my travels, especially when they don't have to extend that hand of compassion.
A quick bus ride later, I was back at the train station where I could now buy a ticket and zip back to the heart of Berlin. I spent the rest of the day doing other Cold War related activities including going to the Stasi Museum and the DDR Museum, both of which offered interesting perspectives to this intriguing time in world history.
Cold War Reflections
Whenever I travel freely in the former communist countries of eastern Europe, I frequently remind myself that not too many years ago, something as simple as a bus ride, a train ride, or a gander across a bridge would not have been possible.
People were trapped behind literal walls in a system that they didn't ask for or want. They couldn't travel to the West to see beloved family members or friends. Their beliefs, movements, and very lives were strictly controlled by fear-instilling governments.
Thankfully—due to the brave souls who never lost hope and kept fighting for their freedom—we all benefit from the openness of eastern Europe today.
Now, when I stroll the streets of dreamy Budapest, drive across the expansive plains of Poland, take a train through the fall foliage covered mountains of Romania, or walk across Berlin's Glienicke bridge, I think about all those sacrifices made by so many. As I do, I pause for reflection and let gratitude flow over me. I'm abundantly thankful for the present-day peace found in these locales, so that their beauty can be enjoyed by so many, including me.
So, when you get a chance to explore an off-the-beaten-path locale that was once off-limits like Glienicke bridge, take advantage of it! And learn a little bit about the history of it, too, before you go. I promise it will make your travels even that much more meaningful!
Resources to learn more:
The Bridge of Spies Prisoner Exchange, February 10, 1962
Spy Swap on the Glienicke Bridge, 1986
